Watch it in 3D
New generation GT V2
Nine short steps from box to finished rig. Every step shows exactly which parts you pick up, so you always know what comes next.
In the box
- 2×Base rail40×40 · 960 mm
- 2×Upright40×80 · 580 mm
- 1×Seat profile40×80 · 500 mm
- 1×Shifter profile40×80 · 340 mm
- 2×Pedal profile40×40 · 410 mm
- 2×Side plate
- 1×Backplate
- 1×Frontwing
- 1×Wheel plate
- 6×Corner bracket
- 2×Seat bracket
- Bolts, nuts and caps
- Spare mounting materials to mount a seat or pedal set
Your setup
Left and right as seen from the seat. Change this at any step.
Shifter profile
Pedals
Step 1 of 9
Base frame
The two base rails are the foundation. Flat sides face out, and the backplate closes off the rear.
What you need
- 2×Base rail40×40 · 960 mm
- 1×Backplate
- 2×M8×16 bolt
- 4×Felt pad
- 1×Hex key
Actions
Tap an action with a bold number to replay it in 3D.
- Lay the two base rails parallel, flat sides facing out.
- Turn the threaded ends to the rear.
- Place the backplate against the rear ends.
- Fix the backplate with two bolts, one into each rail.
- Stick the four felt pads under the frame.
Step 2 of 9
Seat profile
The seat profile stands upright across both base rails, held by a seat bracket on each side.
What you need
- 1×Seat profile40×80 · 500 mm
- 2×Seat bracket
- 1×Flat screwdriver
- 4×M8×16 bolt
- 4×M8 T-nut
- 1×Hex key
Actions
- Stand the seat profile upright across both base rails.
- On each seat bracket, clip off the guide noses of the leg that goes against the base rail with a flat screwdriver: that leg cannot drop into a groove there. Leave the nose on the other leg, it drops into the groove of the seat profile.
- Place a seat bracket under the seat profile on each side, tight into the corner against the inside of the rail.
- Slide the T-nuts into the grooves, fit the bolts and keep them hand-tight.
- Keep the position adjustable for your seat.
Where the seat profile ends up depends on your seat. You can slide it later.
Step 3 of 9
Uprights and red corner brackets
Both uprights stand on the base rails, flat sides facing out, each held by two red corner brackets: one in front, one behind.
What you need
- 2×Upright40×80 · 580 mm
- 4×Corner bracket
- 8×M8×16 bolt
- 8×M8 T-nut
- 1×Hex key
Actions
- Place the four red corner brackets, two per base rail.
- Stand the uprights on the base rails, between their brackets.
- Set both uprights at the same position.
- Slide in the T-nuts, fit the bolts and keep them hand-tight.
Start with the uprights about 15 cm from the front. You can fine-tune this later.
Step 4 of 9
Frontwing
The frontwing bolts across the front of both uprights, just below the wheel plate.
What you need
- 1×Frontwing
- 4×M8×12 bolt
- 4×M8 T-nut
- 1×Hex key
Actions
- Hold the frontwing against the front of both uprights.
- Slide four T-nuts down the front grooves, then fit four bolts, two per side.
- Keep the height adjustable for the wheel plate.
Step 5 of 9
Shifter profile
The shifter profile goes on the upright of your choice, pointing towards you, held by two red corner brackets.
What you need
- 1×Shifter profile40×80 · 340 mm
- 2×Corner bracket
- 4×M8×16 bolt
- 4×M8 T-nut
- 1×Hex key
Your setup
Actions
- Hold the shifter profile against the rear of the left or right upright.
- Fit one red corner bracket above and one below the profile.
- Fit the T-nuts and bolts, then set the height.
Step 6 of 9
Pedal deck
The two side plates go on the inside of the frame, high side at the rear. The two pedal profiles sit between them: one at the very front, one close to the uprights.
What you need
- 2×Side plate
- 2×Pedal profile40×40 · 410 mm
- 12×M8×16 bolt
- 8×M8 T-nut
- 1×Hex key
Pedals
Actions
- Fit the left side plate on the inside of the base rail and upright, high side to the rear, with four bolts.
- Fit the right side plate the same way, at the same height.
- Place the front pedal profile in the front-most, highest slot and the rear one in the slot closest to the uprights.
- Fix each profile end with one bolt through the slot.
- Fine-tune the spacing to your pedals.
Bolts for the pedals themselves depend on your pedal brand and model. You mount your pedals in step 9.
Step 7 of 9
Wheel plate
The wheel plate sits between the uprights. Its folded sides bolt to the inside of the uprights.
What you need
- 1×Wheel plate
- 8×M8×16 bolt
- 8×M8 T-nut
- 1×Hex key
Actions
- Place the wheel plate between the uprights, folded sides against the inside.
- Slide eight T-nuts down the inner grooves, two per groove, then fit eight bolts through the slots.
- Set the height and check that left and right are level.
Step 8 of 9
Finish and final check
Check everything, tighten every bolt and finish with the end caps and stickers.
What you need
- 5×End cap 40×80
- 2×End cap 40×40
2×Side sticker
1×Backplate sticker- 1×Hex key
Actions
- Check the alignment of the base frame, seat profile and uprights.
- Check both pedal side plates sit at the same height.
- Tighten every bolt.
- Fit the end caps, the side stickers on the outside of the base rails and the SimXPro sticker on the back of the backplate.
Ready to race.
Step 9 of 9
Pedals and wheelbase
Three ways to fix your pedals to the pedal deck: pick the one that matches your pedal set. Then see how a wheelbase sits on the wheel plate, and how far it moves and tilts.
Pedals
M8 T-nuts in the front and rear 40×40 profile, M8×16 down through the baseplate.
For pedal sets you bolt into from below (Thrustmaster T-LCM shown, at its real size). The front 40×40 stays fully forward, the rear 40×40 sits under the back of the pedal set. Four 40×40 corner brackets on the outside of both profiles, guide noses clipped off, give a flat tab under each of the 4 outer holes: bolt up from below with a washer.
Per pedal 4 × M6×12 through the 4 corner holes into M6 T-nuts: front holes in the front 40×40, rear holes in the rear 40×40.
What you need
- 1×Your pedal set with baseplateYour pedals, not included
- 4×M8×16 bolt
- 4×M8 T-nut
- 1×Your bottom-mounted pedal setYour pedals, not included
- 4×40×40 corner bracketIncluded with the cockpit
- 4×M8×16 bolt
- 4×M8 T-nut
- 4×Bolt from below
- 4×Washer
- 1×Flat screwdriver
- 2×Your loose pedalsYour pedals, not included
- 8×M6 T-nut
- 8×M6×12 bolt
- 1×Hex key
Actions
Tap an action with a bold number to replay it in 3D.
- Check your bolts and T-nuts: thread (M8, M6 or sometimes M5) and length must match your pedal set.
- Loosen the rear pedal profile and slide it under the rear holes of your baseplate. Tighten again.
- Click an M8 T-nut into the top groove (it cannot slide in from the profile end here): hold it lengthwise along the groove, turn it a quarter turn about its long axis, lower it into the channel until it touches the bottom, then turn it a quarter turn back so it clicks in. Slide it under a corner hole of the baseplate. Two in the front 40×40, two in the rear 40×40.
- Set the pedal set on the deck, the baseplate holes over the T-nuts.
- Turn 4 × M8×16 down through the baseplate into the T-nuts, one at a time, and tighten them.
- Check your bolts and T-nuts: thread (M8, M6 or sometimes M5) and length must match your pedal set.
- Clip off every guide nose of each corner bracket with a flat screwdriver, one at a time: the nose on the tab and the noses on the upright leg, 8 in total.
- Keep the front 40×40 fully forward and slide the rear 40×40 under the back of your pedal set.
- Fit the four corner brackets on the outside of the profiles, tab on top and flush with the profile top: two on the front of the front 40×40, two on the back of the rear 40×40. Each tab sits under an outer hole and the rear tabs stay within the back of the pedal set. The upright leg lies flat against the profile, no nose in the groove. Put a T-nut behind each leg and an M8×16 through the upright leg, one at a time.
- Set the pedal set on the deck. The middle hole is not used.
- From below, bolt up through each tab into the pedal set, one at a time. Add a washer whenever the bolt is smaller than M8.
- Check your bolts and T-nuts: thread (M8, M6 or sometimes M5) and length must match your pedal set.
- Loosen the rear pedal profile and slide it under the rear holes of your pedals. Tighten again.
- Click 8 × M6 T-nuts into the top grooves: hold each lengthwise along the groove, turn it a quarter turn about its long axis, lower it into the channel until it touches the bottom, then turn it a quarter turn back so it clicks in. Slide each under a hole: per pedal two in the front 40×40 and two in the rear 40×40.
- Set the brake and throttle pedal on the deck, their holes over the T-nuts.
- Bolt each pedal down with 4 × M6×12, one at a time.
Bolts, threads and types are brand-specific (M8, M6 or sometimes M5, and the length). They often come with your pedals, but check this before you start, and check that you have T-nuts in the matching size: we sell M4 to M8 T-nuts in our webshop. Some sets need longer bolts or corner brackets; there are too many brands and types for us to include every bolt. The pedal deck is flexible: swap the profiles to fit your pedals.
Your wheelbase (example)
Shown with a Fanatec CSL DD with QR2, bolted to the wheel plate from below with 4 × M6×12. The wheel plate (flat mount) pivots on its rear bolts in the uprights and rests on the frontwing at the front.
- 1×Your wheelbaseNot included · Fanatec CSL DD shown
- 4×M6×12 boltNot included
- 1×Hex key
- Set your wheelbase on the wheel plate, quick release facing the seat.
- Bolt it on from below through the wheel plate, one bolt at a time (Fanatec CSL DD: 4 × M6×12). Check the thread and length for your wheelbase.
- Set height and angle: move the wheel plate and frontwing up or down together, or lower or raise the frontwing to tilt the wheel plate and wheelbase on the rear bolts, up to about 15° down or up. Then tighten every bolt again.
- Set your wheelbase on the wheel plate, quick release facing the seat.
- Bolt it on from below through the wheel plate, one bolt at a time (Fanatec CSL DD: 4 × M6×12). Check the thread and length for your wheelbase.
- Set height and angle: move the wheel plate and frontwing up or down together, or lower or raise the frontwing to tilt the wheel plate and wheelbase on the rear bolts, up to about 15° down or up. Then tighten every bolt again.
Mounting hardware for your wheelbase is not included: bolt pattern, thread and length differ per brand and model, and there are several ways to mount one (from below, from the side or with a flat mount). The Fanatec CSL DD is only shown as an example.
Pedals in. Go race.
